Freaking Out The Neighbourhood
Tchau Brazil, Hola Argentina,
Now I had many preconceptions about Argentina; First there was our rivalry that we have always had, mostly in my mind built by football. Many games always bringing up the memory, which I have never owned but can see so vividly, of Maradona punching the ball.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
There is also the playful rivalry that Brazil has heaped on top of it. Not really sure where or why it started but I and the Brazilians enjoyed hating on the Argentinians together. An enemy of my enemy is a friend.
Upon arrival to the country, I was quickly developing a 3rd reason. As we were hoping to get the Uber to our hostel, 3 consecutive drivers told us to cancel and pay cash, of which we had none. Apparently Uber is illegal out here and throughout the week it seemed to be the wild wild west with regards to Uber and their lawless drivers. We had decided with our Monzo card that the best option was to get cash out in the center of the city.
Argentina did not like that.
The Uber drivers would not take us, the taxi options were extortionate, and the bus company would also only take cash. It was set up to mug us off and as we decided to get cash out for the bus we saw the £10 fee to withdraw it. Fuckery. As we laughed and got out money to take the bus we encountered a Dutch traveller who did not see the funny side of all this. He had just come from Australia and could not wait to go home in 5 days.
Eventually we arrived, 6 hours later than originally intended and just decided to spend the first night getting some food and chilling out. Start again tomorrow. Although the food was basically pasta in milk.
We had recently discovered the request money option in our Monzo accounts and after lots of humorous transactions between Harry and I, I decided to open it up to the floor. Many cheeky requests were sent to friends on Monzo for a beer, the idea of a request popping up on their phone prematurely made us giggle but it was even more enjoyable as many people accepted the request, treating us to a few beers around Buenos Aires.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
Shout out to Jossie, Harvey and Josh Chilman for the goods. Ameet declined the £100 request to get Harry out of jail. Some friend.
Everywhere we went seemed to be taking us for a ride and with little Spanish or knowhow to get us by, the gringo tax was hitting us hard. I tried on many occasions to just speak Portugues and despite Harry reminding me its not the same language, it worked a lot of the time. Although conveniently not for the gringo tax.
We met a Brazilian who lives in New York and two school teachers and spent the first real day wandering the backstreets in search of football tickets. The infamous Boca Juniors were playing in the Libertadores, the South American Champions League, against a team from Brazil. After a hefty walk and a heftier lunch bill we sourced the tickets out in a bar overlooking the canal, where we drank in anticipation nearby a group of Brazilian football fans. Buenos Aires Away Days.
3 photos from this gallery weren’t in the backup.
As we wandered towards the stadium we were met by many riot police and a dedicated section behind metal sheets for the fans to enter, we were told many of the fans were police escorted in by bus but we had no colours or even really allegiances. It may have appeared that way however as we were swearing at the Maradona mural whilst surrounded by Argentinian police officers with mean looking batons. Not the wisest thing we've done. Not the stupidest though.
Once inside I began to swell with Brazilian national pride against the Argies. The joke now being that I am becoming a Bolsominion. Ha Ha. Ha. The real fans there had a real respect for Boca though; after falling behind to them 1-0 in the first leg, Boca have never failed to go through in this scenario. One fan told me if Athletico Paranaense won, he would give me his shirt. Which I don't think I would want as then the Boca fans would probably batter me. Another fan offered for Harry to stay with him in Brazil, on two separate occasions. Other fans were saying that they are here for the experience, to see the city and the Boca fans who did not disappoint.
3 photos from this gallery weren’t in the backup.
Similar to the Maracana the drums were non stop accompanied by singing although rather differently here, many of the fans, in the center of the main stand, stand on metal bars that are not fit for standing, holding on to fabric that descends from the rafters. I couldn't believe it but apparently it's true. Towards the end of the half they began to become loud. Intimidatingly so, but we (loosely used) managed to get in 0-0 at the half but the hope of a smash and grab goal to force penalties was still alive.
Pretty early into the second half that hope was vanquished as Boca scored. The Brazilians were silenced and the Boca fans became so loud and were jumping around so much around that the stadium shook. Physically shook. It was mad. Concrete stands. Then as the second goal went in towards the end, us along with many fans around us began coughing as what we now believe was the dust had been shaken off the stands and into our throats.
A mean kick while we're down and an intimidating message to not come to Boca and try to win.
After a few more beers we also conceded the night, the next day moving across town to a neighbourhood recommended to us by a friend David Iwanandfheuinfjrhethczi (not his real name) who used to live here for 6 years. I've been pestering him for tips and boy did he come through with this neighbourhood. Possibly the coolest place I've seen. I loved Botafogo and still do but this place is ridiculously cool. It's filled with funky bars and coffee shops amidst a few trendy shops, all very up my street.
2 photos from this gallery weren’t in the backup.
As I walked around there is a brisk feel to the air reminiscent of ski towns as the shops all house various scarves and ponchos which is something I am definitely sold on. Just trying to brave the cold until Bolivia where I hear they will be considerably cheaper and the weather will, worryingly, be considerably colder.
As I type this Harry is currently warming up to play in his second football match of which I have given him a series of tasks to complete in order to get a meal tonight. Just to be clear, it's to buy him a meal. Not withholding food here, although that would spice it up a bit. 100% pass success rate so far.
This comes off a great result for his beloved Leeds in a copuntry where their manager Bielsa has filled Harry with excitement to be able to discuss Leeds, Newell's old boys and El Loco, his nickname. He has been frequently seen wearing his In Bielsa we trust which the Argentinians have loved.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
We also have found a few pockets of nature in Buenos Aires, visiting the cities ecological parks, experiencing some beautiful views and intriguing animals to go alongside some decent conversation. Harry has told me he has found himself being drawn to the nature side of travelling and preferring areas of peaceful greenery. Which is great as we are headed to the Amazon next week in Bolivia.
So all in all after a shaky start which did nothing but reinforce my thoughts on Argentinians and feelings on Brazilians, I've been won over and Palermo might be one of my favourite places in the world. It's been completely relaxing and enjoyable just doing what we feel. Half of the time filled with red wine which has been as fantastic as advertised and I myself paid a pretty penny for a steak which was well worth it's price tag.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
We've met some great people here from all over and I experienced a dope moment chilling with two of the hostel staff. I spoke English and Portugues. The french girl spoke Spanish and English and the Brazilian spoke in Spanish and Portugues. So as we spoke we switched between the three languages, not translating, just having one of us not understand at each time as the conversation rotated.
The Brazilian guy also told me he wants to learn English so he can visit England because he loves the Specials which led to a long discussion with Harry aswell about Coventry and how he should definitely come visit it. Something I never thought I would recommend.
We have learnt bits of Spanish and I'm intrigued to learn more, whether I will stay and learn more or go back home or back to Brazil is still up for dispute but all of my choices are 10/10 choices and as I sat and wrote in my diary having a coffee in a corner in some cool neighbourhood in Buenos Aires with one of my best friends just around the corner I feel pretty blessed, even without Christ looking down on me.
