Through The Valley
Unfortunately I received some bad news recently and my Nan has passed away at the great age of 91, she was ready to go and went peacefully so it is as best as we could have hoped for. She was a fantastic woman with a bright spirit who was so kind and loving and she will be missed dearly. I have her to thank in part for my adventures, for everything she's done for me and my family. I will return to join in the goodbyes and the celebration of her life in the next week. A sad reason to come home but an important one. May you rest in peace, you deserve it.
When you last left me, I was aboard a bus to Cusco where I have resided for the last 3 weeks. I spent the first two weeks working pretty solidly, and by working I mean speaking to Japanese people, in English. Cusco is also very high up but thankfully my few days in La Paz acclimatized me to be able to deal with it. It's still tough to exercise but this was just another reason not to.
I did stumble upon a park, which charges 20p entrance and contains 3 concrete football pitches all being played on by Peruvians. Not quite as good as the Brazilians but a few gems in there. I decided to join in from the sidelines after the end of the game but unfortunately they all went for lunch so I just stayed and did a few keepy uppys with some of the better ones. Unfortunately even doing that tweaked my hip so I have not returned, trying to rest and recover ready for my return to English football.
Instead I spent my time wandering around, eating at the market and reading in the many squares all around Cusco. I rinsed through 3 books in the first two weeks but unfortunately since then I haven't been able to find any decent books to switch with in the hostels. The adventures of Sherlock Holmes has been my favourite book on this leg of my trip.
3 photos from this gallery weren’t in the backup.
The main square is beautiful and the old town is very friendly to tourists who make up about half of the pedestrians wandering around. Throughout the weeks I bumped into many travellers who I had met in other towns, quite surreal really meeting people in a town across the globe, although it is prime location on the Gringo Trail.
The main attraction of course being Machu Picchu. No tour of South America or traveller's Instagram is complete without the picture atop the ancient citadel.
I shopped around and decided for the tour with less walking and more comfortable accommodation. Despite all my pictures and journeys, I'm not the biggest fan of hikes. I went for the 4 day/3 nights jungle tour which involved downhill biking, hot springs and a few walks. I skimped on the rafting and the zipline to save money, which essentially went on tequila and beers. Make good choices kids.
To tell the truth, I have a reputation for being pretty shite on a bike and I believed it, going with a company that had all the gear, pads and all and even paying an extra £8 to my insurance company to ensure I'm covered. Once on the bike though, there was no problems and I remembered that I actually can ride a bike.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
Music in one ear, we began single file heading down the winding road through the valley. The views were incredible and the pedaling was minimal. I began behind a slow rider and for a while stayed single file, and by a while I mean about one minute before I razzed it past her. Two lads also saw the overtake and razzed it past me pinging it miles ahead of me. Thanks to their pace and the girl behind me being slow, I was able to spend the first leg of the trip cycling with all the room in front of me and behind me just enjoying the tunes and the views.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
On the second leg we decided to hold back and ping it past people, as I used to do on the ski trips. Tunes a bit louder, confidence higher and two mates on the same wavelength led to a very enjoyable next part. Pinging it past each other and those around us, handling the corners with a bit more speed and continuous beauty whilst singing aloud. It was better than I could have imagined. One of the lads had a bike malfunction and as I saw him take the corner he didn't turn and ended up in a ditch, although he steezed it out pretty well. As he got out ok, I continued past him but didn't see him again until the end. I later learnt he was a Watford fan so he most definitely deserved it.
This 'biking' downhill through the valley was honestly one of the best things I've ever done. I can't believe I considered missing it.
I did however ditch the rafting in the afternoon and explored the (very) little town in which we stayed before the group returned and we shared a quick beer before bed.
The next day was the 8 hour trek. Playlists downloaded, very rested we all departed along the dirt track. Throughout the day we all mingled and walked in different little groups really getting to know each other better. There were 3 English lads including the Watford fan who somehow I managed to develop a little bromance with, so much so, at the end of the tour some of the girls were asking if there was something between us. Sorry Dad. Maybe I won't be allowed home after all.
7 photos from this gallery weren’t in the backup.
As the day went on, the hiking got higher and higher and we had to have frequent stops to catch our breath. We had ample stops as well to show us the way of life for the quechans living in the valley, showing us the coca leafs, how they pick and roast the coffee beans and how they drink. Pouring out a little booze for Mother Earth and thanking her, saying "Sulpay Pachimama" before downing the shot infused with snake. The guide gave us a long explanation of how tourism has ruined 'Qosqo' which tbf was right, but at the same time, telling the tourists. He did also thank us for the good sides of tourism.
The day didn't feel long and besides from a lil' grumpy patch after a post lunch nap I loved it all. I had plenty playlists downloaded and plenty good company to choose from. The 2 Argentinian lads in our room. The 3 German girls and the Austrian, the Colombian American and the elder Argentine couple who didn't speak English but were great fun.
We grabbed the cable car across and had an hour or so just messing about in the hot springs. the water being 41 degrees after a long walk and ready for a night of drinking were plenty to create a fun atmosphere which carried on into the night.
As the night went on and plenty of tequila was drunk out of the dick of an Inca statue, the dancing began. A bit of tango, a bit of forro was danced and a wee bit of Brazilian funk. Everyone had the ziplining pretty early in the morning, but not me. "Another dickful of tequila please senhora", as the Germans and the English joined me.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
It became just myself and the 2 German girls left and as we tried to make our way home, we had no idea what the hostel looked like or what it was called. Thankfully the town was pretty small but that didn't stop us getting very lost. Having walked past the square 3 times, we stopped to think and upon all thinking it was a different way we explored each route, the only route we didn't was the road we had come from. It appeared to be none of them. Luckily a policeman took us into the station and called our companies to find out where we were and escorted us back home. Dream.
After a nice lie-in for me I joined the group for lunch before our 3 hour walk along the tracks to the town below Machu Picchu ready for our early morning hike. By this point the group had got to know each other well and it was a very enjoyable day. Something about exploring along railroad tracks feels very adventurous and doing so in the sun wandering through an area that looks Jurassic just added to the feeling.
5 photos from this gallery weren’t in the backup.
I was also to be given a lie-in the next morning as unfortunately my tickets had been messed up and I had the 8:00am to Machu Picchu instead of the 6:00am as most of our group had. This was a disappointment but I was just happy to be going. We would have to leave by 11 so my time was cut by a significant amount and also would not be with my group or my guide. But I had a bit more sleep and could casually make my way up.
Thank fuck for that part cause the walk up was tough. Constant steps in jungle terrain, passing those in front all making the same faces to each other. Ones that said fucking hell, I ain't gunna make it. But we all did and upon getting to the top at 7:30am I was perfectly tranquil even treating myself to a beer with a view. Fuck it, it's past 12 in England, I deserve it and I'm only gunna be here once.
3 photos from this gallery weren’t in the backup.
Little did I know, this tranquil mood would not last, my new guide was nowhere to be seen and my old guide who had come out had told me to wait a minute and someone else will guide me. But time waits for no man and my time had already been cut. I went in and was told there would be another guide. There was not. So I had to explore on my own.
It was pretty cool to see but if I'm being honest I didn't get the wow factor I was told by many other travellers. Seeing the pictures plenty of time on the ol' gram, I knew what to expect and with the large swathes of people around it didn't really have the feel of ancient city for me. It was still pretty cool and the views from the city were amazing, just the whole city was not as brilliant as I thought. Maybe the lack of guide didn't help although I've been told the guides weren't that helpful overall by those who had them. The Llamas were pretty boss though.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
I had to move pretty swiftly to try and see things which did not help and was very underwhelmed by the Inca bridge which I detoured to see. I got round and saw most of it, not knowing what it all really was and made the walk back down followed by the 3 hour trek on my own for the 6 hour bus ride back also on my own.
Unfortunately I did not enjoy that day, which is a shame, but the 3 day trek before that was incredible and one of the best things I've ever done. The scenery was constantly beautiful, the group were great people and the activities were fun. And I got the picture.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
They say Machu Picchu is spiritual and maybe the old city made me feel shit cause I took a leak in a bush there however I don't believe in that shit and also it was basically a holiday city for the rich during the Inka rule so I doubt that it holds these sorts of beliefs itself.
Unfortunately for me this is the end of my trip. It's been an amazing few months and even better including the year before in Brazil.
I have a lot to say about but I would like to do that in another post, for myself to feel like this whole blog has a conclusion, for neatness. I feel like the song through the valley describes my trek, not my whole journey, it feels at a loose end. I will allow myself to reflect in the coming weeks but for now I'd like to concentrate on being with the fam and saying goodbye to my Nan.
For those who will continue or will soon begin their own journey's I'd also like to pass on my Nan's advice of which she would always tell me with each new adventure...
"If you can't be good, be safe"
