Let Me Take You To Rio
Been a busy few weeks. I've fallen behind on life; this, my own diary, coding and Duolingo. Works been annoying, I've read zero books and I have no idea whats going on in the soap.
But I have done many new things and seen more parts of the city than I have in the previous 3 months and been with great company all the while. I think its been important to do and great fun. But its also taken a lot of energy out of me.
There's quite a lot to write about and so to integrate with my coding practice, I've incorporated some shortcuts. Please click below to jump to different days to read about them. If you only fancy a couple, I recommend both the Friday's, they were definite highlights and I understand why such incredible artists such as the Cure and Rebecca Black have made songs about them. If you fancy the long haul or like continuity, keep on scrolling baby!
Enjoy
Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday Monday Midweek Friday
Thursday
As a few friends of friends arrived the week before, it took till Thursday to finally meet. Now when people ask me to show them around Rio, the truth is, I don't really know where to take them. They probably don't want to see the basketball bar or the cheap place for food round the corner. And when it comes to the weekend, having been so far disappointed by the nightlife in Lapa, I don't really know where to take them. Besides the beaches.
But it helps when they have an idea, I can take you where you want, alongside my secret weapon of the Brazilian housemate who used to work in tourism, doing exactly that. Showing gems to myself as well as friends in the city.
So the girls Lucy and Lauren, a connection through the family of Ameet's girlfriend, eventually arrived and I joined them to Sugarloaf mountain. Damn it was expensive. I tried to speak to the ticketeers (surely that's a word) and claim a residents discount in my best Português. I didn't get it but the full fee was worth it to go up there, at least once.
When you come to Rio all the advice is to do everything at either sunset or sunrise to get the best experience. Everything. We got many great pictures including my first creep of a couple. They were looking at each other so lovingly and happily that I had to, just missing the kiss. When I showed the girls, Lauren had told me how much she had liked it when someone had sent her the picture, and as a way of feeling less creepy I showed them. They loved it and were very appreciative. And they had brought tinnies up to the top. Legends. Northern Irish. Who very strangely turned out to be friends with Mark!
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
So we saw the sun go down and the lights go up, before making our way down into Botafogo for some drinks in the bars. We spent the night drinking in a row of bars in which everyone is sat in the street, on chairs I should add. One of my favourite things to do here. But with the night fast approaching, work tomorrow and more importantly the Warriors on, I made my way to the basketball bar of which the girls had actually wanted to join. Something I've found that people generally do if you just do you. Unfortunately though it was not on so we had a lil' nightcap before heading off home.
Friday
The next day I called on my Brazilian weapon (Jose) (nothing else) to show them (us) around Leme Rock at the end of Copacabana beach
We saw Monkeys.
3 photos from this gallery weren’t in the backup.
I don't think I've ever seen monkeys unless in a zoo and I loved every second. They were inquisitive and curious little monkeys climbing down electricity poles and trees to say hello. Or at least to see what was going on. They would stay calm, staring at us as we stared back at them. We had no food but continued to try to offer them pieces of grass or whatever we could find lying around. It was hard to continue, wanting to stay with them/become one. An old feeling I used to have in university. But we trekked up, seeing again some beautiful views of Rio from a different angle.
I returned after a quick rum and coke with the girls atop the hotel roof, back to nap and get ready for the night out. In Lapa. Lauren had gone and Lucy wanted to go see some samba so I consulted my contacts and received a long list of places. With one sticking out in both of the lists I was sent. Carioca da Gema.
After napping, I didn't feel like going out. I never do. It took a long time to get in the mood, secretly hoping that she too did not want to. But I'm glad again that she did. So we hit up the famous lapa steps that Pharrell and Snoop once graced before meeting Mark and his singer girl, Thays, for a few drinks. This led to an impromptu set from her and her mandolin playing friend in the street, of many classic Brazilian songs, including Mais Que Nada. A few people came over to watch and give their compliments. It was a lovely moment, and on that note, we hit up the samba bar for more.
Now before, I have had a few alright nights in Lapa with one in particular which I enjoyed. But this bar has completely changed my opinion on the place. Upon entering, with our drink still in hand, we made our way to the stage amongst of crowd of mostly middle aged people. We looked the youngest there by quite a margin. The decor, small stage and the buzz surrounding the place, reminded me of New Orleans, holding the title for my favourite place in the world. But now I'm reconsidering.
We stood and watched the artists take the stage and a group of 6, all donning a different instrument, began to play, each exhibiting different personalities and characteristics. We watched a few people around us dancing and as I have done before, we decided to just give it a go. Me using a very slight bit of forro knowledge to lead. Over our shoulders was a couple, who to me, represented Brazilians perfectly.
Both around their 30's, I would guess, beautifully brown, slim. Him in a football jersey, her in a dress just shy of her knees, coloured with a bright background behind blue birds. They moved around swiftly but calmly, moving closer and further apart in time with the music and sharing intimate kisses. Their rhythm was incredible, as was their chemistry. In that moment for those two I'm sure nobody else was around.
But we were, and we attempted many of the same moves and although we may not have nailed them, we had a great night trying. There's something about the dance clubs here, its much more intimate and I for one am a fan.
So we danced into the night, really being drawn along with the atmosphere of the place and the tone of the music, before reconvening for the beach the next day.
Saturday
Spending the whole day at the beach drinking beers and caipirinhas, haggling vendors, and taking dips. Becoming slowly more drunk before the sun caught up with us. Lucy had made a new facebook friend in the lady selling cheese; she was particularly lovely with a memorable voice that was very high. I imagine she had a fantastic laugh. We took our drunken tomfoolery to the streets of Ipanema, having one more nightcap before using our towels as weapons/accessories as we made our way back through the streets and eventually the cab.
A photo was here; it wasn’t in the backup.
Sunday
I then traded her in (lol) for my friend Hanisah, of which we started as I had left off, catching up over a few beers and caipirinhas before hitting up the beach for what was day 2. A great start to Rio for her I'm sure with great weather, better views and topping up the tan before she's even begun. Important for those holiday pics. So we spent the day lounging, swimming, drinking and the like. By 2 o'clock, having already had a caipirinha and a few beers I felt a peak of emotion which was almost too intense and it broke me, I had to take a while to calm myself and chill out. Which we did on another beach amongst friends.
But the weekend, the sun and the drinking had caught up on me and I was beginning to struggle by Sunday night, making, what I felt was a mess of introducing her to Mark and Thays. Trying to get everyone involved with the languages and everything, appeared too much for me in this state and I found the whole thing more awkward than I'm assured it was. So we scuttled away to the hostel and Hanisah kindly made me dinner before sending me home.
Monday
Now on Monday I pulled out my weapon again (stop it) and we headed to another of Snoop and Pharrell's spots in the city in Parque Lage. A historic mansion with columns surrounding a swimming pool in the centre that is not for swimming. A beautiful spot surrounded by beautiful gardens and jungle like foliage that provides a walk up to the Christ. It's an amazing place that's actually an art college, as if it needed to be any cooler, with people around painting on large sheets or filling classrooms. This may be a future spot for blog writing. It felt comforting, even in the rain. Maybe even more in the rain.
Now when it rains you could be excused for thinking that Rio is only for tourists and service people as the Cariocas retreat in and choose not to leave their house. This is especially true for Jose who tells me as the phrase goes "eu sou feito de açúcar" - I am made of sugar. As he looked fearfully out the window, I convinced him to take us and he did a great job showing us around lil' caves and other parts of the jungleness we surely wouldn't have wondered to.
We saw more monkeys. Further away this time but feasting on a jackfruit together.
4 photos from this gallery weren’t in the backup.
Midweek
The busyness and heavyness of the weekendness had taken its toll on me as I fell ill the next day and spent the next few days with a painful throat for swallowing, paired with fevers. But don't feel bad for me, I learnt a lot of Português through watching films, including a few cartoons of which Hanisah joined me in her hungover state. And I was back ok by the Friday. Always seems to be the way...
Friday
In a gamble, I agreed to go do the Dois Irmãos hike for what was another high up view of Rio for what was yes, another sunset. I wasn't sure about how I would be feeling but armed with my magical pills (that I bought from the pharmacy) and a can do attitude I attempted the hike. Now many people, mostly Maddy, had tried to get me to do it, including one previous failed attempt with hostelis, but truth be told I couldnae be arsed on many occasions. Seemed like a lot of effort but I knew I had to do it at some point and with Hani being here it was a good time to concede. Sorry Maddy.
But I was fucking right, it was fucking effort.
So I went to meet Hani at the secluded beach on Sao Conrado, of which she positioned herself as far as humanly possible to the side that the metro wasn't. Long. But the beach was beautiful and very empty, leaving us to dip and relax, able to leave our bags unattended and having our own space.
I didn't really think things through/no-one had warned me/everyone had told me the walk up is easy. So I was only donning a pair of flip flops, worn ones at that, as we made our way up.
Moto-taxiing up to the football field in the favela where the trek began was an enjoyable start. My geezer cackling as he rode past people, pretending to lasso other drivers in front before surging forward. The football field was inhabited by children, no older than 5, being coached in a similar style I had applied when coaching Americans of the same age. Shouting, what I imagine was, TURN AROUND! TURN! STOP! TURN!, KICK!, to stop them from running off the pitch. Although I used to used animals as instructions that I had already primed (For more coaching tips, pm me). Also the football pitch was just turf in terrible condition with many areas of concrete showing underneath. But the fundamentals were the same, from the Favelas to Silicon Valley. Humans.
We began our trek, easily enough, following the track, taking pictures of butterflies and peeking at views through the bushes, each view becoming nicer and nicer the higher we climbed. But the higher we climbed, the steeper it got. The steeper it got, the more difficult it became to climb and, the more my footwear began to let me down... Now the only advice we had had was, do it at sunset/sunrise. Shock. And to follow the beaten track. No signs or anything to help but I mean... this thing just would not stop. The trees in front always hiding how far we really had to go. About 7 hours in (probably 30 minutes) we ran into a few Brazilians on the way down. I pleadingly asked them if we were near the top to which they responded about 20 minutes. I genuinely thought they were having me on, and would not accept it. And they were wrong, it was another 3 hours (they were right). So we plodded on, involving lots of chit chats and having to go barefoot for a large remainder of the journey. I also forgot about water, but thankfully Hanisah had got some so we rationed on the way.
We made it, not before the clouds had blotted out the sun and a chance at sunset, but we made it. It was empty and the views were still incredible. I've started to develop a pretty good 3D aerial image of Rio by now and have seen it from 4 different vantage points and the one thing that always pops into my mind and had popped into Hanisah's is that "which crazy bastard's idea was it to build a city here?" amongst all the high rise mounds and the lagoon, it does not seem feasible. They shouldn't really have attempted it, the city sprawls around each mound an favelas begin to rise up what looks, and I quote 'prehistoric' hills.
But I'm very glad they did as this is fast becoming my favourite place in the world, the vast entertainment across the city matched with a relaxed nature. The stunning views both high and low and the culture of dance, football and pure enjoyment. I'm beginning to love samba more and more with each song and it really just matches the feel of the city.
3 photos from this gallery weren’t in the backup.
As we began our descent, in perfect timing, the rain began to come as the nighttime began to roll in. Just perfect. For a mere second I thought god exists, and he was laughing at us or maybe I had brought on the rain with my constant, although mostly joking, negativity towards the situation. We made our way down with music and still joking around, I actually enjoyed the dark descent through the jungle more. With no shoes and a drop of rain, it felt more adventurous and just silly. Stopping on occasions to look at the favela opposite, lit up like fireflies, and to try and snap the lightning in the distance.
As time began to long out again, Hanisah began to get on at me to hurry up. Now unless you are Mowgli or Tarzan or have done this before then you can complain, but its not fucking easy. Its doable and better than flip flops but I wasn't fast. I dunno how those guys did it. Eventually we made our way down, drinking atop the favela bar to take in a few more views before heading down for a well earned beer, or 4, in the streets of Botafogo amongst friends. A brilliant end to what was a great day.
Conclusion
On Saturday we headed up Santa Teresa and walked around enjoying ourselves up there and walking up and down the Lapa steps. But for now I've rambled enough and I'm sure you're as tired as I am, and I will be spending more time up there in the next few months.
It has been a long break from writing for me and there is a lot I wanted to get, down, thanks if you are still reading. I don't wish to take this long again but I was very busy and although I've really enjoyed it, I welcome the break. In my moments to relax I didn't get the inspiration to write, choosing to chill out by watching movies or napping. This means I also hadn't got to share many of my thoughts and feelings that I'd had, as they have now gone, but don't fear, I'll spread my pearls of wisdom plenty in future posts I'm sure.
For now Hanisah has headed for Salvador, Bahia for a few days of which I am very jealous and I will spend the week relaxing, reading, coding and not drinking. She will return for one more night of samba on Friday before I send her back off to you guys back home.
